Your work has been accepted in an exhibit. Now it’s time to prepare and pack it up for shipping. What is the best way to do this? What do you need to do? Priscilla Alden and I recently co-curated a tapestry exhibit: Tapestry…The New Wave (TTNW) in Maine. We had several tapestries shipped to us. The range of packing was a surprise. We received everything from work in a box with no protection from the elements to well conceived and executed packing.It inspired me to write this post.
Here are some elements to consider:
Label Your Work
It is important to have a label of some kind on your work that will not come off easily. I used to make a handwritten label using muslin and a permanent marker similar to Minna Rothman’s label above. Sara Hotchkiss’ commercially made label is simple, but effective. Frances Crowe uses a hand stamp she had made up to make her labels. She stamps muslin and hand sews the label to the back of her work.
One of the entries for TTNW by Sue Pretty used labels printed on fabric then hand sewn onto the back of the tapestries. It is very clean and professional looking so I have started to do the same. All you need is a printer. The product is produced by June Tailor Inc.:Sew-In Fabric Sheets for inkjet Printers. The package includes 10 sheets of a white fabric adhered to paper. You simply design your label in any word app and size it appropriately to print. It only works with inkjet printers. I purchased it from Joann Fabrics in the US and it is also available online.
You need to decide what information you want on your label. Below is a list of possibilities:
- Designer name
- Weaver’s name
- Tapestry Title
- Date completed
- Studio name and address
- Telephone number
- Website or other socila media
Label Your Packing Materials
If you want to have all your packing materials returned you need to label everything. This includes any fabric bags, plastic bag or sheeting and bubble wrap or paper. It works best if you write directly on the materials with indelible marker. Sewn on printed labels work well on fabric bags. When 30 or 40 works of art are being unpacked by several people things are bound to get a bit out of order no matter how careful and organized people can be.
A few more things to consider:
- Have two copies of any forms required, one for yourself and one for the venue.
- Shipping address clearly marked on your box and any return shipping information required.
- Return shipping payment and label if required
- Protect your tapestry with appropriate coverings, including a final layer of plastic, in case your package gets left in the rain.
- Use an appropriate sized, strong, reuseable box or tube that is a bit larger than your work so you can add additional padding. If using a tube I recommend a screw top as opposed to a push in top. I once lost an item that went through customs. The push in plastic top was gone and in its place was clear tape barely covering the opening.
- Bubble wrap or paper is preferred. Don’t use plastic peanuts of any kind. They are messy and annoying.
When shipping overseas I always label my box and any paperwork: “Textile Sample to be returned to sender” This helps to avoid and taxes, but nothing is foolproof.
I encourage readers to write about your experience with shipping especially international shipping in the comments section below.
The first time I ever shipped a tapestry overseas was in 2006. I have to tell you it was with a bit of trepidation. I didn’t know if I would ever see my work again. I thought it was going to be expensive and was concerned about it getting through customs and back again. All these years later I have shipped work almost a dozen times to seven different countries on three continents. I’ve learned a few things that I can share.
One of my greatest and most expensive lessons relates to insurance. I shipped a tapestry to Serbia. I made the mistake of insuring it for the retail price. When I heard the cost of the shipping I almost fell over, but I paid it. Aside from the obvious issue of cost, I should have done one of two things:
1. Insure for the wholesale cost.
2. Go with the minimum insurance that comes with the shipping price.
You would only get the wholesale price if you sold the work, so why insure for retail? (See Methods Of Pricing). The second option: Go with the minimum insurance is what I now do. I have been told that when you insure for a large sum of money it is like a red flag to customs. I have had venues specifically say not to insure. They believe that this helps work move more smoothly through customs. I know it is a risk and I am willing to take it. If you are not, use option #1 or insure for what you are willing to take if your work is lost.
Pay attention to holidays. I recently shipped a tapestry to the Ukraine around Easter time. I paid for 3-5 day shipping, but because of a long Easter holiday in the Ukraine it wasn’t received for two weeks. I should have either shipped sooner or not wasted my money on the faster arrival. I would have known about the holiday delay if I had thought to ask the venue how it affected them before I shipped my work or looked it up online. You can actually find a holiday calendar for most countries.
I store my work in muslin bags that I make for each piece. On the bag, written in indelible marker, is the title of the piece and my name. When I ship work I place the piece, which is in the muslin bag, into a plastic bag that is then sealed. I use paper packing to stuff in the box and keep work from moving around. I also place packing paper top and bottom to pad the work on the ends. I make sure the box is larger than the tapestry so I can pad on all sides. Don’t use peanuts! Everyone hates them and customs may not put them back which leaves your work unprotected.
I use heavy cardboard boxes since work is shipped two times, there and back. I don’t recommend tubes. I once used a tube for a piece that was shipped to the UK. When it was returned the tube had obviously been opened, in customs I imagine. The plastic cap ends were missing and in their place was cellophane tape. I know that a small item I should have received was missing. At least with a box, the ends are integral with the rest of the package, so no lost caps. FedEx has a triangular box that is good for rolled tapestries.
Often the venue you are shipping to will send you detailed instructions regarding shipping and labeling. Sometimes they specify the carrier you should or should not use. One thing I have seen a few times is to write: “RETURNING TO ORIGINATOR” or something similar on the outside of the package. This is for customs. Some countries will try to charge a VAT tax. The happened to me once when I didn’t write: “RETURNING TO ORIGINATOR” on my box. The UK wanted to charge me VAT tax. Fortunately I shipped with FedEx and they handled the problem for me.
I have seen this go two ways. I shipped a piece to the Ukraine from the US. The venue specified using the US post office to ship. They gave me the pricing for different weights and I just had to weigh my box and buy the return label. Then, by the instructions of the venue I wired them the money for the return shipping. Unfortunately, this is an expensive way to go. My bank charged $40 US for the wire.
If you can use FedEx or your local postal service you just pay the return shipping up front and put the label in the box. If you have an account with them, it is even easier. Again, the venue will tell you what you should do. Always follow their instructions to the letter.
Make sure you have a tracking number and keep it safe until you have confirmation from the venue that the package arrived.
You do occasionally hear about someone who has lost work but I believe this is quite rare.
For more detailed information the website Art Business Info For Artists is an excellent resource put together by an artist.